Ask Mountain Goat's founders, now long gone from the industry but whose role in driving craft beer's rise in Melbourne remains a key chapter in modern Aussie beer history, about key moments in their story and I'm pretty sure of one that would feature. It was the decision to streamline their core range to two and introduce Steam Ale. There were some who bemoaned the loss of their original Pale Ale and India Pale Ale that was part of the decision, but their hunch that an easier-going, more approachable beer would help them shift greater volume proved a wise one.
There's similarities to be found in GOAT, the most successful gambit with the brand since it became part of Asahi's global network. Chances are, you'll find yourself drinking it from the can in a park, at a barbie, on a beach, or at a festival – all occasions when you'll likely not be paying too much attention to the liquid inside. Should you pour it into a glass and give it more of a once-over, as we did for a Budget Busters blind tasting, you'll find a pleasant lick of lemony citrus and melony aromas atop a light, unobtrusive pale base with a drying, faintly resinous bitterness. It's a simple and well-put-together session beer that, in combination with a seriously competitive price point, has ensured it's far and away the brewery's biggest seller.
James Smith