It doesn't hurt to set expectations here by laying out some of the less-than-traditional ingredients to be found within this autumnal trio from Sailors Grave: Goshen Country Roma tomato water, Wapengo Rocks wild organic oysters, Force Of Nature Crystal Apple, Little Potato, Lemon and Armenian cucumbers, Chappy's Organic Dill Seed Spice Mix, strawberries, rhubarb, cinnamon, cardamom and vanilla. If you're reeling a little, rest assured that they feature in a trio of beers, not just one.
The first two from that list are found in Bloody Caesar, and in combination with the lurid red, Roman orgy-esque labels, could easily lead to apprehension or at least open eyed excitement at what’s going to flow into your glass. Such feelings are quickly assuaged or let down (depending which you opted for) as there’s no Bloody Mary red slurry here but a slightly hazy pale gose in which the lifted lacto tang hits first. Give it time and an earthiness adds a little depth and breadth, and a touch of savoury salinity too. I can’t profess to picking it apart too well given the subtle application of the adjuncts; gose meets broth meets cocktail, perhaps?
It’s A Big Dill is, as much as anything, a reminder of just how potent an aroma and, to a lesser extent, cucumber possesses. The dill seed mix proves to be more of a top note and drying finisher than anything substantial with Sailors Grave’s refreshing gose base keeping things ticking along. If you've got a pack of collaborator Chappy's punchier, green-dusted chips that come with a backend pinch of cayenne, it makes for a great pairing, cleansing the palate after each crunch.
Now, I really dig the brewery's imperial cream pie sours, which I first came across via their international collab for Pint of Origin 2022. They're a logical progression from the cream sours they helped bring to a wider audience in their earlier years, and The Fool maintains their standards. Pouring with a murky purple-pink viscosity that, paired with a thick white head, looks like rhubarb meringue in a glass. The fruit embellishes the tartness, the cinnamon and cardamom a sharpening spiciness, and the vanilla brings a distinctive custard character that never becomes heavy – even with a crushed biscuit malt sweetness for company. Yum.
James Smith
Published April 23, 2023 2023-04-23 00:00:00
