It’s a sure sign that the beer world is changing when what could previously be described as an immovable object starts shape-shifting. Hamstrung to an extent by the size of their brew length and fermenters, Mildura Brewery was one that seemed to remain stoically unchanged. Barring the annual release of its luscious Choc Hops beer, its range had been set in stone for years and it seemed that this was the way things would stay.
But not anymore. The eagle-eyed may have spotted a Spring Flower Saison in recent months (and you’d have to be eagle-eyed as it was gone almost as soon as it appeared), while an Elderflower Saison is imminent (the orange blossom that appeared in the first won’t be back until next year), as is a Raspberry Lambic, a golden ale for summer and then an IPA. Beyond that? In all likelihood a small batch release every month or so plus four larger, yet still limited, seasonals.
“The capacity that we have has precluded us from doing too many small batch, one-offs because of the size of the fermenters,” says head brewer Rod Williams, who now spends as much, if not more, of his time on the road talking and promoting his beers as in the brewery with his team making them.
“A few months ago, we managed to acquire a couple of 1200 litre fermenters, squeeze them into what little space we had remaining, and that has enabled us to run small volumes.”
It’s also allowed them to start using more yeast strains than before and thus experiment, for example with the two saisons, one brewed with a Belgian yeast, the second with a French strain.
“Glen [Nolen, the 2IC in the brewery] went to pick the orange blossom flowers himself from the citrus trees around Mildura,” says Rod of the Spring Flower Saison. “It was a logical connection to use them and [the characteristics] came through in the beer as well.
“All the orange blossom had gone by the time we wanted to make the second saison so I went and pinched some elderflower from Domaine Chandon in the Yarra Valley where my wife works. I used my daughter as my foil and sent her off into the bushes⦔
The results of their “theft” is about to hit taps at the brewery, with limited kegs available for other venues. Also out permanently now is the Astor Ale, a beer takes its name from the magnificent Art Deco Astor Theatre that houses the brewery. It’s a filtered pale ale using Galaxy and Cascade that was originally brewed for a spare tap at the brewery bar but proved so popular it’s now out nationwide.
“What we’re doing is taking it in turns in the brewery to come up with new styles to brew [into the smaller tanks],” says Rod. “Glen came up with the saison and Richard [at the brewery on a working visa] has got a small batch of raspberry Lambic on the go that’s coming out in the next week or so.”
Staying true to his British heritage (he brewed at the likes of Young’s in the UK before moving to Australia a decade ago), Rod’s next contribution will be an English style IPA.
The iconic former Astor Theatre that houses Mildura Brewery
“I tend to favour some of the more earthy British flavours,” he says. “There’s a lot of American style beers out there. The British contribution to the brewing world over here is slightly underdone so I’m trying to rectify that!”
The IPA will follow on the heels of the British style strong ale / old ale / winter warmer, Winter Sun, he brewed for this year’s GABS that is set to become Mildura’s annual winter seasonal. And freshly returned from a trip to Adelaide, where he says interest in craft beer is rising fast, he’s also planning an exclusive, SA-only beer for next year’s Mad March.
The ability to make such plans is thanks to Mildura’s owner Stefano de Pieri (pictured above right with Rod). He took control of the business and the brewery last year and was keen to see more new and varied beers sent out to pique drinker’s interest anew in one of the longest-established and largest craft breweries in the country.
“Stefano has a passion for everything he does,” says Rod. “He’s been instrumental in giving us the capacity to do this and it gives us all a bit of fun.”
