The beer lovers of Western Australia have been well served by their local craft beer industry over the past few decades, with growing numbers of microbreweries found in popular suburbs, tourist regions and even where you might not expect them. But for a long time, the CBD and surrounds have, for the most part, not been so well served.
So offer up thanks to Nowhereman, which opened less than three kilometres from the city centre in the second half of 2017. It has quickly carved out a place as “Perth’s Urban Brewery”, thanks to its own spin on the three part harmony of the brewery’s eponymous Beatles song title: a dream team of front of house, kitchen and brewer bringing their best to the former furniture factory.
Founder Reece Wheadon’s six-year background in the roles of WA Beer Week director and curator served him well through the gestation period of Nowhereman. Which is just as well, as it was a gestation that dwarfs that of an elephant. His vision for a brewpub close to the CBD, bike paths, train lines and free central area transit buses took four years to become a reality but, with an expertly recruited and experienced team, it's been on song ever since the needle finally hit the record.
In the kitchen, they're using Eden Valley biodynamic wheat and Caputo 00 flour in their pizza bases and, elsewhere on the menu, the focus on small batch and ethically produced foods elevates Nowhereman food well beyond the fare found at most brewpubs and beer venues.
The third part – the melody, so to speak – is played by Brody Watts who oversees all Nowhereman's beers as head brewer. The Leederville Draught, Crate Digger Pale Ale, Rhapsody XPA and 3 Speed Session Hazy showcase their provenance as do collaborations such as annual affairs like Barrels in the Skigh, with Skigh Wines, or Le Vietnam's Lemongrass and Ginger Rice Lager. Beyond the house beers, there’s a similar Western Australian focus throughout the wine, spirits and sodas on offer.
All are enjoyed in a bright and airy space filled with natural light in which the bar – black tiles at the rear, an expanse of hardwood to lean on while making your selection – is very much the centrepiece, flanked by the brewery on its left. Seating is a mix of low tables and benches, higher spots and stools, with bare brick walls, giant murals, large plantings and a rendition of the brewery logo looming overhead on one of the factory windows further evidence this has been a labour of love for Reece.
It makes it a great space for hosting events – something Nowhereman wasted little time in embracing – and possesses a vibe that’s as welcoming and inclusive as their beers.
Guy Southern
