Besk is a neighbourhood bar in the Perth suburb of West Leederville that happens to be an emporium of libations – some off-piste, some not – with a name that's Danish for bitter. Wildflower is a neighbourhood brewery and blendery in Marrickville that makes beer – some off-piste, some not – with a name that reflects the natural connection to fermentation.
And now the people behind them have made a beer, and that’s as simple as it should be – at least if it wasn’t for cross-continental travel, a charmingly bespoke brew kit, locally and globally wrangled ingredients, and other elements that embellish the bitter theme. On paper, the combination of native WA sandalwood, NSW whole cone Fuggles hops, gentian root, wormwood, Wildflower's house culture, and large format oak shouldn’t pour as well executed as it does.
Cresting an opaque yellow pour, Besk Bitter’s silky mousse offers tarragon herbalism, peach and apricot compôte, and sweet sandalwood notes that turn almost floral – all forming a delicate amuse bouche. Lemony freshness and pithiness, flat lemonade and pineapple ring juice meet creamy, sweet malt. Oak texture frames the whole, as veiled acidity elevates rustic bitterness, which by Wildflower’s standard is huge, its resolution becoming increasingly moreish with each sip.
Guy Southern
Published October 26, 2023 2023-10-26 00:00:00
