When Tasmanian gambler David Walsh and his team first built a brewery at Moorilla in 2005 – atop what was later to become the world-famous Mona – it was on a whim. Inspired by a bottle he’d found on a night out in Europe somewhere, starting a tiny craft brewery to fill it felt like a fun riposte (or middle finger) to the multinational-owned "Tasmanian" brewery big dogs of Boag's and Cascade.
Like Mona, Moo Brew was built to buck a few trends: from the hotbox glass-walled brewery itself – which they soon outgrew, moving down the road to a big concrete box in Bridgewater – to the John Kelly artwork that graces the bottles and cans, and the subtle twists-on-classics nature of the beers themselves, Moo’s never been one for the straight and narrow.
Eighteen-odd years later, with Moo “all grown up”, they decided it was time the brewery got its own home (that wasn’t the big concrete box). The goal was to create somewhere punters could bend the elbow in semi-salubrious surrounds, while head brewer Jack Viney also wanted to squeeze in a tiny brewery to better experiment and human-test the many brews the crew had in mind.
After finding a suitable spot on Salamanca Place – home to the legendary tourist trap Salamanca Markets and some of Hobart’s more storied watering holes – Manky Sally’s popped up in May 2023, its name a nod to the location (plus a dollop of self-deprecation).
The in-house nano-brewery in the middle of the bar provides liquid for a rotating range of experimental "Sally’s Brews" on tap, with the general vibe of the place being "luxe dive bar": modern small-plate food options, carpet up the walls, and a back wall featuring almost 3,000 illuminated Moo Brew bottles (which is less tacky than it sounds, and feels like a fitting acknowledgement, given how the brewery started).
As for the reasoning behind squeezing a fully-functioning brewery into a space about the size of a bedroom, Jack says: “Sally's is unique in comparison to other Tasmanian breweries as we have the main Moo Brew production brewery offsite, which still supplies the bulk of our taps. But this gives us some creative space. Our philosophy is to keep brewing tasty beers that people want to drink.
“With the production brewery in full swing, in the past we’ve lacked the ability to let the creative juices flow other than the scheduled, large-scale limited release beers. With the little brewery, we can brew lots of fun things all the time, do some R&D in the process and, in general, just have some fun while making some cracking beers.”
Made to feel "mildly luxurious" and with a focus on reclaimed and repurposed materials, it features soft velour furnishings, veneer panelling, and that (literally) wall-to-wall vintage carpet (that’s also recreated on the bar mats). Add an abundance of mirrors, retro tiles, polished timber and plumbing fittings that have been turned into light fixtures – it’s quite the scene.
A concise food menu leans heavily into small plates to accompany Moo’s brews – chef Sam Bray pulls inspiration from all over: there’s everything from his take on okonomiyaki (Japanese pancake) with tofu or wild venison to a grilled sourdough flatbread with pulled eggplant and Sichuan sesame sauce. Sustainability is a focus across the venue, where spent grain and surplus beer – along with wild game meats and Tassie grown veggies and seafood – are featured and prepared with care.
Beer-wise, Manky Sally’s celebrates everything Moo has to offer, so expect stalwarts like their Tassie Ale and Dark Ale, plus limited stuff as well as the experimental, venue-exclusive Sally’s Brews.
“We felt there was still a need for a core craft beer venue but we recognised it needed to be done with a twist,” Jack says. “So, we ditched the standard brewpub vibes and created something pretty fun and special.
“Beer is obviously where our heart lies, but Manky Sally's has a few extra gems outside of good craft – something for everyone.”
For those visiting the Southern Isle looking for the quintessential Tassie experience, a visit to Salamanca Place will be near the top of any to-do list. If you want my advice, grab a scallop pie while perusing the Salamanca Markets before perching at Manky Sally’s for a beer or two. And if you want to make a day of it, the ferry to Mona departs from very close by, so a trip to Mona could (or should) comfortably start or end (or both) with a brewery tour and tasting at this one-of-a-kind brewpub.
Jono Outred
