A little over a decade ago, the corner heart of Perth’s most famous nightlife strip was having a Cinderella moment. Gone was the 90s food court and Ozone nightclub; in its place, a grassed area, piazza and large- screen offered stark contrast to what had been there before.
The granting of a number of small bar licences had allowed a change in the way some socialised outside of what had previously been a big beer barn experience. Although not a small bar by any means, Northbridge Brewing Co captured this new mood: a brewpub in the heart of a city that had, for the most part, been averse to such things even as the rest of the state was dotted with scores of them.
While the new form of licences made such a venture possible, and the nature of that part of Northbridge had evolved, most would have figured at the time that building a working brewery on the cusp of Lake and James Streets was optimistic at best for an area with a challenging, if colourful past.
The irony, of course – and one which is as true today – is that West Australians travel, and experience this kind of experience around the world, even if subsequent change can often be slow to take root at home. Growing up in the most isolated capital city on the planet imbeds an outward focus for many, and WA's beer history has been partly shaped by pioneers that had spent time in urban breweries throughout Europe and the US – the likes of Matilda Bay and Little Creatures.
As such, Northbridge Brewing Co’s launch in 2014 inside a three-storey, new-build brewery and venue – and with WA brewing legend Ken Arrowsmith (pictured top left in 2014) at the helm in the brewhouse – seemed especially confident.
However, ten years on, that initial faith in both the location and the team seems especially prescient; along the way the award-winning beer range has given rise to not one but two Champion Australian Beers at the country's biggest beer awards (for Wheat in 2018 and Blueberry Clouds in 2022), as well as a model that birthed a second brewery venue inside Whitfords shopping centre 30 minutes north.
What's more, the subsequent proliferation of small breweries and brewpubs across Greater Perth makes the Beerland team's move look more like common sense with every passing month.
Guy Southern, who happened to be there on the brewery's opening day in 2014, picked the brains of senior brewer Andrew Dean – who started at NBC back in 2014 as assistant brewer – for this entry in our Ten Lessons From Ten Years series.
Andrew Dean
1. Lager Is Still King
Despite pale ale being our biggest seller over the years, there’s no denying that things have come full circle back to traditional lagers and more hop forward versions such as Italian pilsner, IPL, and cold IPA which “most of us” love.
2. The Lupulin Shift Is Real
Though we may have come full circle on beer styles, generally there’s more hops in our beer than ever before as brewers continue to innovate with new products, varieties, and the timing of additions.
3. Venues Are Key
In the current economic climate, we are grateful to have not just one but two Beerland venues. Although we have in the past put significant resources into external sales, having a pub to fall back on has been key to the survival of our brand.
4. Less Is More
It’s easy to forget in the craft space, where you’re competing to capture the imagination of punters, that you can throw too many different flavours, malts or even hops into a recipe.
A few well-chosen ingredients can mean better integration of flavours, more drinkability, and repeat customers.
5. Presentation Is Still Important
Just because the beer and hospitality industries are struggling doesn’t mean we can forget about keeping glassware “beer clean”, draught lines hygienic, a good head on our beers and, for the love of fermented beverages, keep the decals straight!
6. Keep An Open Mind
There are a few brewers out there – as much as we love them – who think in absolutes, or that they know all. There is more to learn, and talking to our peers, discussing recipes, ingredients and processes only makes us better brewers.
7. People Are The Biggest Asset
We are only as good as the members of our team, and there’s a handful of people from every class that have kept us going, whether it's kitchen, front of house, or just damn good management.
8. Be Part Of The Community!
The brewing industry is full of good and creative people. Network, be present – you never know where the next great collab may come from, or what opportunities may arise.
Although all of us crafty brewing companies are "competing", it’s one of the most inclusive and supportive industries I’ve seen. Take advantage of this and have a bit of fun along the way!
9. Don’t Be Afraid To Be Creative Every Now And Again
Be flexible, times change, and different needs arise.
Keep an open mind to new opportunities to explore or ways to service your clientele. You don’t know what market you may be missing out on if you always do what everyone else is doing.
I'm not saying blow heaps of dough chasing dreams but, again, have a bit of fun…
10. Focus On The Whole Experience
For us, being a craft, suburban-style brewery in the heart of a nightclubbing district has been hard. Balancing good food, quality brews and late-night atmosphere has been key to use lasting this long!
Andrew, Ken and other former and current NBC employees got together to create their tenth anniversary beer. You can read about Deca-Gone here.
And you can find other Ten Lessons From Ten Years articles here.
About the author: Guy drinks and writes about beer, goes for a run most mornings and makes his own chilli hot sauce. Find out more on Goodtimes Craft Beer via Facebook and Instagram.
For me, beer writing is about sharing experience with others, most of which is as much about what happens around the glass as what’s in it. It’s why I started a blog in 2014 after years of drinking beer and through quite literally bumping into founder James Smith at Good Beer Week began writing for The Crafty Pint. Many amazing friendships have developed from the love of water, malt, hops, yeast, adjuncts and hype!
The beer(s) or moment(s) that turned you on to good beer
Early 90s experience with Dogbolter and bottles of Delirium Tremens at the Sail and Anchor proved that there was more to beer than the cheap stuff I was drinking. A few years later, Chimay Blue once again teased before Little Creatures Pale Ale and Feral Hop Hog set the course for beer with flavour and nuance.
Favourite beer styles
Balance and drinking context are key but a short list includes Brett saisons, super fresh West Coast IPAs, well constructed BA sours, BA imperial stouts and fresh India pale lagers.
You've got three beers to turn someone else on to good beer; what are they and why?
Depending on the beer and circumstance, bitterness and acidity are the hurdles to overcome.
- Right now, Eagle Bay’s IPL is a great modern expression of technique and approachability. The hop presence arrives in soft mango and lime with enough bitterness but it’s the tight carbonation and refreshingly super dry finish that seals the deal.
- Boston Brewing’s Afterglose: Raspberry gose brings a near-perfect fruit / salt / acidity balance to a vibrantly coloured beer. It’s a real talking point which can lead to conversation about the history of beer styles, acidity on the palate or just: "Do you want another one?"
- Any fresh Czech-style pilsner. This has to be fresh in order to pick up the grassy noble hop characters and zippy bitterness on the slightly more biscuity malt body. While familiar to many, a really fresh expression is great starting point for a massive world of beer.
Tell us about a standout beer moment
A favourite beer memory involves spending an afternoon sitting under the dripping eaves of a café in the 5th Arrondissement watching Parisians run in and out of a bakery with fresh baguettes while I drank large goblets of Duvel as the winter rain soaked the tiny cobblestoned square. So much about beer is context!
