After close to two decades, Feral's iconic Swan Valley brewpub is set to close in five weeks in a further reflection of changing times. The trailblazing brewing company, which was acquired by Coca-Cola Amatil in 2017, will move its pilot brewery to Bassendean, with last drinks at the bar on October 3.
Under the helm of co-founder Brendan Varis and protégé brewer Will Irving, the Swan Valley brewpub birthed a remarkable legacy of liquid which helped shape Australian beer culture. Their progressive energy delivered Tusk, the nation’s first double IPA in 2003, Feral White – once their best-seller, Hop Hog, Boris, Watermelon Warhead – an oaked, fruited kettle sour a decade ahead of its time, War Hog, Biggie Juice and an expansive list of influential limited releases.
In 2012 Feral expanded, accompanied by Nail Brewing, into a larger production facility in nearby Bassendean, and then another just doors down the road, which rendered the Swan Valley kit an R&D pilot brewery, but one which continued to define the brewery’s spirit; 2017’s Biggie Juice, one of Australia’s early hazy examples first appeared there.
Since the original brew kit was shut down due to COVID, the Feral team has been brewing smaller batches at Edith Cowan University, and GM Robert Brajkovich says a new pilot kit will now be installed in the Bassendean facility.
As for the decision to close the brewpub at a time when many brewers are eager to have a public face, it's largely been driven by the end of their lease.
“We’ve known for a good while that we would not be renewing the lease at that location," he says. "The plan was always to get another venue up and running before the lease ends.
“We were always looking for another opportunity over the past two years, and there have been countless rumours, but there’s nothing that’s come to fruition.”
Robert notes that “COVID hasn’t helped” on this front, with the pandemic's impact once that has “decimated the Australian hospitality industry”.
“I think that, in the current environment, and knowing our skill set," he says, "we’d probably look to partner with a hospitality operator.”
In the meantime, Robert says the current brewpub team have been offered roles at other hospitality venues through Feral’s network, or severance packages.
“It’s been emotional, and I give a big shout to anyone who has worked at the venue, and helped that build this venue and the Feral brand.”
A visit to the brewpub has long been a bucket list item for beer lovers in Australia – and visitors from overseas – particularly in the earlier days of craft beer's rise in Australia. Before Feral started distributing widely outside their home state, heading west and into the Valley was the most palate-pleasuring mission an avid beer drinker could embark on.
While there has been no comment about the future of the site, Feral beers will continue to be widely available, and, at time of writing, there are just five weeks left to take the uneven blacktop off Great Northern Highway, and over the humped, freight railway lines to toast this piece of modern Australian beer history.
Feral's Media Statement Regarding The Closure
We love WA. No doubt about that.
It is where we brew our beers, it is where we live; it is our backyard. Western Australia is the heartbeat of Feral Brewing Co. And we don’t intend to go anywhere.
We continue to go from strength to strength much like the ABV in Biggie Juice (#drinkresponsibly) but as a business and a brand, we’re looking towards the future.
Our Brewery in the Swan Valley will unfortunately be calling last drinks on Saturday 3 October.
We will be moving our pilot plant to our facility in Bassendean and have made the decision to not renew our lease.
You will still be able to enjoy our award-winning brews – Biggie Juice, Hop Hog, Sly Fox, Feral Draught, Runt and many more – from the pubs and bottleshops right here in Perth and nationally.
We would love for anyone that’s enjoyed the place over the last 19 years to come out in the next 5 weeks and raise a Hop Hog to the crew at the Swan Valley for their incredible service over the years.
About the author: Guy drinks and writes about beer, goes for a run most mornings and makes his own chilli hot sauce. Find out more on Goodtimes Craft Beer via Facebook and Instagram.
For me, beer writing is about sharing experience with others, most of which is as much about what happens around the glass as what’s in it. It’s why I started a blog in 2014 after years of drinking beer and through quite literally bumping into founder James Smith at Good Beer Week began writing for The Crafty Pint. Many amazing friendships have developed from the love of water, malt, hops, yeast, adjuncts and hype!
The beer(s) or moment(s) that turned you on to good beer
Early 90s experience with Dogbolter and bottles of Delirium Tremens at the Sail and Anchor proved that there was more to beer than the cheap stuff I was drinking. A few years later, Chimay Blue once again teased before Little Creatures Pale Ale and Feral Hop Hog set the course for beer with flavour and nuance.
Favourite beer styles
Balance and drinking context are key but a short list includes Brett saisons, super fresh West Coast IPAs, well constructed BA sours, BA imperial stouts and fresh India pale lagers.
You've got three beers to turn someone else on to good beer; what are they and why?
Depending on the beer and circumstance, bitterness and acidity are the hurdles to overcome.
- Right now, Eagle Bay’s IPL is a great modern expression of technique and approachability. The hop presence arrives in soft mango and lime with enough bitterness but it’s the tight carbonation and refreshingly super dry finish that seals the deal.
- Boston Brewing’s Afterglose: Raspberry gose brings a near-perfect fruit / salt / acidity balance to a vibrantly coloured beer. It’s a real talking point which can lead to conversation about the history of beer styles, acidity on the palate or just: "Do you want another one?"
- Any fresh Czech-style pilsner. This has to be fresh in order to pick up the grassy noble hop characters and zippy bitterness on the slightly more biscuity malt body. While familiar to many, a really fresh expression is great starting point for a massive world of beer.
Tell us about a standout beer moment
A favourite beer memory involves spending an afternoon sitting under the dripping eaves of a café in the 5th Arrondissement watching Parisians run in and out of a bakery with fresh baguettes while I drank large goblets of Duvel as the winter rain soaked the tiny cobblestoned square. So much about beer is context!
