Paul and Natasha Holgate have long been brewery owners keen to showcase their love for Woodend and its surrounds. Afterall, Mt Macedon Pale Ale was among the brewery’s first ever releases and was a beer that advertised the fact you can see the mountain range in question from Holgate’s historic pub home.
It’s now 20 years since Holgate first released a beer and, though the brewery is now much larger, it still sits in the same corner of Woodend it's inhabited since moving out of the family home (sure, it’s a much larger corner now) and Paul and Natasha still like to tout their corner of Victoria.
The brewery’s early 2910, 600 Above, does just that, referring to the height above sea level at which Woodend sits. The citrus saison combines a mix of ruby grapefruit, limes, mandarins and oranges with the hop Saphir, which might not be among the most well known hops but does serve up aromas of spice and citrus. There might be a fruit-bowl sized amount of citrus in there but, with the fruit all added on the hot side of the brewing process, those flavours are neither dominant or particularly upfront. Instead, the yeast-driven notes of cloves and spice bring to mind classic saisons that combine complexity with a refreshing drinkability. The citrus combo does bring out an underlying zest and tang, which for this writer brings to mind childhoods spent at grandparents' houses stuffing cloves into oranges to make pomander balls.
Published March 8, 2019 2019-03-08 00:00:00