There’s a Fawlty Towers-esque “Don’t mention the war!” element underpinning this release from the Endeavour Tap Rooms. Specifically: “Don’t mention the Dunkel!”.
This beer, according to most style guidelines, would be classed a Dunkelweizen but of course they wouldn’t dare call it that because who actually knows what that is or would buy one unless they were lingering alone and confused in some Bavarian beer hall? “Dark Wheat” seems far less foreign and terrifying so that’s what they’ve called it. And it’s precisely as approachable as its non-threatening, anglicised naming suggests.
This is a beer made with an array of malts that, in very broad terms, can be split into two distinct functions: wheat for the general mouthfeel and darker varieties for colour and flavour. There’s a slightly sweet sensation on your first sip, though that seems to become of less import as the German yeast comes into play, offering up the customary banana and clove characters of the style (not to mention making it pretty darn murky). That’s backed up by those dark malt characteristics coming through on the palate; roast, coffee and chocolate among them.
This isn’t a style of beer Aussie brewers tend to make with much regularity so it’s hard to imagine there being great demand for them locally – at least not beyond the classics imported from the German brewers who have perfected them over centuries. But that, in a way, proves their worth. If the style was no good it probably would’ve died out long ago. Don’t be afraid of the dunkel.
Nick Oscilowski
Published November 20, 2018 2018-11-20 00:00:00