Bridge Road founder Ben Kraus is making a nice habit of pulling something special out of the bag to mark his brewery's anniversaries. And with this - a beer which suggests that while the first half of 2011 belonged to black IPAs the second will belong to black saisons, what with Doctor's Orders Synapse having appeared already - that tradition continues. You can plot the evolution that's led Ben here, from the spectacular Oak-Aged Imperial Porter of the fourth anniversary through last year's mightily impressive B2 Bomber. It's not just that the malt bill has been the same for all three; the effect of the Belgian yeast that made last year's B2 increasingly funky as it aged is multiplied here. This time it's the yeast from his Chevalier Saison, a strain that's prominent enough in its fruits and spices to dominate the aroma, leaving the roast and chocolate malts to add heft to a rewardingly complex beer with layers of flavour as dense as its tan head and as slinky as its packaging. The black IPA is dead. Long live the black saison?