The name of the beloved yet oft-misunderstood saison style translates to season, reflecting its Wallonian farmhouse origins in a French-speaking region of southern Belgium. And if a season is moment in time, then it stands for Artisan that this idea parallels an epoch, or perhaps, époque.
So here we have a moment in time, with Époque welcoming the warm seasonal change with a light honeyed malt base, and lemony tinges that wrap muddled apricot with light white pepper freshness. Yeast-driven clove phenolics are elegantly restrained, but not so the joyously dry finish that ebbs though a fine spritz. No adjuncts, no fuss, just a classy saison that teases the mind with thoughts of cruising on vintage bikes through pastoral Belgian serenity.
Abbey B offers a different kind of pastoral vibe. This year’s vintage pops with familiar banana lolly and crushed clove-laced aromatics before opening to more on the tongue: a cardamon character flits about dried apricots, likewise a light peppery dust with alcohol sweetness. The 2024 iteration feels drier than previous vintages, lifting spice elements to the fore while asking for rich cheese pairings, or maybe even buffalo wings with blue cheese dressing – something of which Artisan’s Julia Fitzgerald would certainly approve!
Apiary debuts a series celebrating Artisan’s tenth birthday. Founder / head brewer Brain Fitzgerald’s party notions will see them drop a new 10 percent ABV beer every month for ten months, each with a new collaborator – long-time local supporter the Denmark Tavern kicks things off here.
Dubbed an imperial honey ale, what pours sits between a darker tripel and a Belgian strong golden ale, looking not unlike a glass of the local redgum honey addition. While Apiary isn’t a braggot, no one is going to miss the key adjunct, however there’s also an apricot stonefruit undercurrent, maple syrup, veiled spice and light herbal sage in the mix too. Carbonation is slight, adding palate weight as the demi-sec finish trails away with buzzing bee-like booze warmth.
Guy Southern
Published December 18, 2024 2024-12-18 00:00:00