A leash* of WA-only Foxes has arrived, each with its own creative bent, all with drinkability at their core.
We begin with Connect The Dots, a beer that pours such an attractive shade of clear mahogany that it doesn’t seem like it wants to be drunk, rather stared upon and surrounded by whispers about its beauty. Should one overcome this hurdle, there’s a very moreish beer on the other side, one whose poise encompasses incredibly fine roast, light, nutty ballast, and an ephemeral cocoa dusting that coyly never steps into the limelight. Indeed, restraint is the hero here, and there may be some that miss the nuance and grace on the search for bolder characters, but hopefully the urgency slows, and more drinkers can connect the dots.
If not, there’s Dare To Dream, a hazy IPA jam-packed with El Dorado, Cryo Citra, Nelson and Nelson Amplifire Hop Oil [read about these newer products here], all at a rather modest ABV – another indication that the overall booze barometer is moderating. The smooth, possibly dream-like, flow flits between crushed pineapple, juice box OJ and white grape, with muted lilting resin making a late appearance.
Meanwhile, In The Shadows black IPA waits for the Old Money: a nostalgic, ageing cohort that are probably lucky to have whatever papillae remain after surviving the high IBU lupulin wars of the early 2010s. Indeed, it’s interesting to see a minor resurgence in that formerly hype style and, with it, greater care of expression.
Black IPAs can feel like competing goals, and to some extent that’s at play here, with inviting chocolate malt and peripheral molasses aromas meeting bold citrus and dank pine. However, things soon harmonise, leaving assertive bitterness and resin to duel through the lengthy arid finish.
Guy Southern
*A leash is the collective term for three foxes. Don’t worry, I didn’t know either until assessing this trio.
Published September 6, 2024 2024-09-06 00:00:00
