Mischief is at the core of this quartet, and Artisan for that matter. Brian Fitzgerald’s wry smile and dry wit encircles the brewery’s efforts while wife Julia’s broad laughter is as infectious as it is welcoming. Thus it makes sense that Artisan’s recent Froth Town stand would be branded Gnome Town, and feature more variants of the brewery’s Gnome Belgian strong golden ale than most other stands poured for the entire festival – they brought close to 30 unique beers this year.
With so many to choose from, just these four made the leap into cans – disappointingly, Gummy Gnome remains unpackaged. One can dream but, in the meantime, we begin with King Gnome, the most straightforward of the bunch.
Crested with a fittingly regal rocky white crown, white pepper and subtle spice aromatics tease before melding into classic banana and bubblegum notes in the glass. Late season apricot joins thereafter as the fine bead subsides to a lengthy, dry close. It’s the kind of beer that deserves ballooned stemware and an afternoon snacking on the kingdom’s bounty; if in doubt, consult the can art for inspo!
After finding our Gnome bearings, albeit a few standard drinks in, the compass soon swings towards the US for Citra Gnome. Much like its titular character, this modern, hop-driven Gnome has appeared, on and off, over many years, and it’s a very welcome sight in cans. Feeling juicy, Citra Gnome balances hoppy assertions with old world aplomb: integrated bright citrus nestles with stonefruit and light floral wisps. There may be a King Gnome, but here is a usurper to the throne.
Mon chéri! There’s no mistaking this brightly stained cheekiness of Cherry Gnome; it almost looks like jelly in the glass. Gnome’s now familiar stonefruit and spice characters are awash with cherries: fresh, candied and cordial. Subtle almond joins the festivities and, for some reason, this writer was compelled to add a sprig of rosemary to the glass as if toasting to an imagined Northern Hemisphere Christmas.
Finally, buzzing into the foursome is Honey Gnome. Here, local red gum honey moderates the ABV while adding soft herbal / eucalypt aromas against the honeyed nose; Artisan suggest maple syrup characters appear. Apricot and peach lead the full palate, one that dances with fleeting spice and more honey.
Guy Southern
Published September 5, 2024 2024-09-05 00:00:00
